Doucet, now 36, spent five days in a Majorca hospital before being transported by ambulance to Majorca’s airport and flown to Gatwick Airport in London, England. From there he was transported by ambulance to Heathrow airport and then flown home first class to Brantford, Ont. His insurer, RBC, hired a Canadian nurse to accompany him. The total bill: $22,727.50.

Fortunately, Doucet had spent $63 on travel insurance to cover him for the 11 days he was away. “Best purchase I ever made,” he says. “Quite apart from what it would have cost me if I had to pay for it myself, I don’t know how I would have handled the logistics of getting myself home.”

Indeed, when it comes to preparing for holidays, travel health insurance should be at the top of your list. Provincial health insurance plans offer sparse coverage for travellers outside of Canada and that can mean big trouble if you need hospital care. “It’s really not wise to travel outside of Canada without insurance,” says Milan Korcok, a long-time medical writer and Florida-based editor of Travel Insurance News (travelinsurancefile.com). Even if you’re just popping across the border to do some shopping, he points out, you need to be protected. “Health care is more expensive in the U.S. than pretty much anywhere in the world.”

Fortunately, protecting yourself from medical mishaps on the road doesn’t have to cost a fortune. Herewith our tips on how to keep costs down:

Avoid doubling up on coverage

“We don’t bother with travel medical insurance because we’re both covered through work,” says 35-year-old Alysia Isidros of Mississauga, who co-authors the blog Beachjunkies.blogspot.com with her husband Mike Solon, 33. Similarly, premium credit cards frequently include travel medical insurance and trip cancellation insurance. The caveat: study the policy closely to make sure you know what you’re getting, advises Korcok. Insurers often limit how much they’ll pay out for claims and restrict coverage to shorter trips.

Don’t buy from your travel provider

Most travel agents flog travel insurance, but you can often get it cheaper elsewhere. Consider that an all-inclusive travel insurance package for a 52-year-old on a $1,500 one-week trip to Aruba rang in at $145.80 per passenger through a package tour operator, including up to $5 million in medical coverage. By contrast, online insurance provider travelguard.ca offered an all-inclusive package for $92.88, including $10 million in emergency medical coverage.

I learned the hard way that if you don’t know what you’re covered for, your home insurance won’t do you much good. Read on, and I’ll fill you in, so you won’t flush good money down the drain like we did.

What kind should you get?

Home insurance generally comes in three different flavours: basic, broad (also called “standard”), and comprehensive. Basic is cheap, but doesn’t protect your home’s contents, so it’s not typically used by homeowners. Broad only covers you from “named perils” that are specified in the policy, and nothing else. Comprehensive, or “all perils” insurance works the opposite way: It covers you for all conceivable calamities except a list of excluded items—typically earthquakes and floods—along with natural wear and tear, mechanical breakdown, settling, and deterioration. This is the kind most homeowners get, and it’s the kind that Fred de Francesco, an insurance agent with Hugh Wood Canada, strongly recommends.

If you get comprehensive insurance, be sure to run a comb through the exclusion list before you sign: “One company may exclude water damage, while another company includes it,” says de Francesco. Similarly, “some policies may restrict coverage during home renovations, while others have no such clause,” he says. Work from your home? Make sure your policy allows for this scenario. Otherwise, your insurer could decline to cover you when you make a claim.

You can pay extra to add “riders” to your policy to cover items on the exclusion list, and if you live in an earthquake-prone region in B.C., says Lindsay Olson, a vice-president at the Insurance Bureau of Canada, there’s a case to be made for purchasing earthquake insurance separately.

Of concern to a broader range of Canadians, sewer backup “has become a big peril for today’s homes,” says Generations Insurance agent Vicki van Santen. If your base policy doesn’t include it, it’s the one extra you should probably always add.

How much coverage do you need?

Don’t confuse the value of your policy with the market value of your home, which includes the land your home is sitting on. Your policy only needs to provide you with the funds to rebuild your home or repair its structure if it gets damaged.

These days most insurance companies assess the cost of rebuilding your home for you, so you don’t have to worry about how much coverage to get. So-called “guaranteed replacement cost” policies cover the cost of rebuilding your home when it gets damaged, no matter what the amount—even if the insurance company underestimated how expensive it would be. Remember, though, that when you renovate, you have to let your insurance company know, says Olson, as that will affect the replacement cost.

A better deal

When you’re buying home insurance, you’re almost always better off using an independent broker who deals with a number of insurance companies, so he or she can get you the best price possible.

To keep your premiums as low as possible, consider bundling your home and auto insurance policies together. “Using the same insurance company for both could shave up to 15% off your total bill,” says personal finance guru and author Gail Vaz-Oxlade. Other measures that could give you a break on premiums: a monitored burglar or fire alarm, a sprinkler system, and—believe it or not—quitting smoking. “Many fires are caused by careless smokers, and insurance companies recognize that non-smokers have a lower risk of fire loss,” says Olson.

Don’t forget what’s inside

Most comprehensive home insurance policies include contents insurance, which covers the cost of replacing your belongings, up to a set amount. But Margot Bai, a former insurance agent and author of the book Spend Smarter, Save Bigger, says this is one area where you could save money by taking the “named peril” route and only insuring big ticket items.

“If you make a claim every time the dog chews on your dining room leg or you drop wine on your laptop, the company could decide not to renew you,” she says. “You get contents insurance to cover the big stuff.”

It’s not as far fetched as it sounds. Toronto’s Mark Skaff recently enlisted his 2003 Mazda Protégé Sport to vouch for him when he joined a trial Pay-How-You-Drive (PHYD) insurance program. He agreed to let his insurance company monitor how he drives using a small electronic recording device in his car, and in return his provider offered him the opportunity to lower his insurance premiums.

Skaff only uses his car to haul groceries and run errands. For the past two years, he shared the tracker data with his insurer every six months. “I knew I would save something,” he says, but the outcome still surprised him.

Such Pay-As-You-Drive (PAYD) and Pay-How-You-Drive (PHYD) programs are slowly gaining popularity in the U.S., but they’re not widely available here—yet. Both rely on telematics, or remote information exchange, using trackers and a car’s on-board diagnostic system to create a clearer picture of your driving habits. The system lets your insurance company monitor how often you drive, when you drive, and whether you make a habit of screeching to a stop or roaring down the street.

The program Skaff enlisted in—the only one in Canada so far—is currently on hiatus. But once Canadian insurance companies fully commit to such programs, they would make great sense for value-conscious consumers, says Dave Huber, an insurance telematics expert, and president of Kairos Solutions. Both systems are user friendly: drivers can plug the trackers into their on-board diagnostic (OBD) port themselves. And sharing the information is equally easy. Skaff uploaded his data into his home computer, and newer systems do it wirelessly.

Depending on the policy, a PAYD or PHYD program “could save 20% to 40% if the telematics confirms that you don’t travel at night and you are a cautious driver,” says Clem Driscoll, a telematics expert and managing partner at C.J. Driscoll & Associates in Los Angeles. And a few wrong moves won’t cost you. “Companies who offer this are saying, ‘we will not raise your rates based on the info we gather.’ Even if you’re not the safest driver, it won’t hurt you,” he says.

Some worry about the Big Brother aspect of tracking, and it’s a valid concern. Although the programs don’t record where you go, they do record a lot of personal driving information, and participants should ask their insurance company exactly how that data will be used, and who it will be shared with.

As the programs gain ground here, more drivers will soon face the choice Skaff made—but he says he would do it again in a heartbeat. After all, his $1,500 annual insurance bill quickly shrank to $1,200, netting him $300 a year in savings. “Someone with driving habits that are more risky might not be comfortable sharing their information,” says Skaff. “But that’s exactly how low-risk drivers, like me, are able to save money.”

Building your policy

Think of your auto insurance policy as a mix-and-match wardrobe. Aside from a few de rigueur colours like basic black, the build is up to you. Below are the main components you have to choose from:

Third-party liability insurance. This insurance is mandatory, and is considered “your first line of defence if anyone decides to sue you,” says Fairview Insurance Brokers principal Fred de Francesco. You have some say over the amount of coverage you get, but he cautions against skimping in this area. “What happens if you run into a streetcar or bus? Bumping up your coverage from $200,000 to $1 million only hikes up your premiums by about $100, so it’s well worth the cost,” he says.

Accident benefits: Also mandatory, this component covers your medical expenses—everything from ambulance services to chiropractic treatment—if you’re involved in an accident, whether you’re at fault or not. A tip from Allstate Canada’s Saskia Matheson: “Your employee benefits may overlap with this coverage, so find out about your medical and disability coverage. If you have enough, you don’t need to buy extra coverage on your car insurance.”

Collision and Comprehensive: Collision insurance covers damage to your vehicle resulting from an impact with another vehicle or object—including the classic hit-and-run in the grocery-store parking lot. Comprehensive coverage takes care of such nasties as theft and vandalism.

While both collision and comprehensive insurance are optional, Margot Bai, a former insurance agent and author of the book Spend Smarter, Save Bigger, advises against waiving collision and comprehensive coverage, “unless your car is so old that the increase in premiums you’d face when making a claim exceeds the value of the vehicle.” Think $5,000 or less.

In combination, collision and comprehensive will set you back by a few hundred dollars. You would think that the premiums would go down as your car ages, but Toronto consumer advocate and auto insurance expert Lee Romanov says it doesn’t always work out that way. “If your insurer has had problems with your type of vehicle, the rates could go in any direction,” she says.

Waiver of depreciation: This option entitles you to receive the list-price value of your car if it gets totalled or stolen within the first 24 months. Otherwise, “you would have to pay back the difference between the list price and the depreciated cost,” says Nancy Hamilton, a manager at Hugh Wood Canada.

Rental car coverage: If you frequently rent cars, consider this extra coverage, “which only costs $25 to $50 per year and may be more affordable than paying for insurance every time you rent a car,” says Matheson.

If you want to lower your premiums, consider raising the “deductible” on your collision and comprehensive insurance. This is the amount that you have to pay if you make a claim. Personal finance guru and media personality Gail Vaz-Oxlade recommends “raising your deductible from the standard $250 to $500, which could save up to 20% on your premium. Go for a $1,000 deductible and you could save 30% or more.”

Shop ’til you drop

Every insurance company has a different way of assessing risk, says Marlene Landry, manager of consumer and industry relations for the Atlantic region of the Insurance Bureau of Canada. “Some companies will hike up your rate after one accident, others won’t change your rate until you’ve had two.”

That’s why you should consider enlisting an independent insurance broker to shop for you, rather than going directly to one provider. “A single broker may have contracts with five or six insurance companies, and you need to talk to several,” Landry notes.

A further stone to turn: the group insurance packages offered by many professional associations and university alumni societies. “If your association consists of accountants who drive Volvos to work, they might be able to offer you a lower rate than you’d get from an individual policy,” says Automobile Protection Association president George Iny.

The claim game

Say you run into the car ahead of you at an intersection, crunching its rear bumper. Should you involve your insurance company? In fact, “the law requires you to do so,” says Michael Turk, legal counsel for the APA. Otherwise, “you run the risk of voiding your policy.” Turk acknowledges that many people skirt around this bit of law and pay for minor collision damage out-of-pocket (assuming the other party agrees). After all, why make an $800 claim if your premiums will go up by $500 a year for the next six years?

Here’s one reason: “The person you rear-ended could make a personal injury claim against you down the road—perhaps because of chronic back pain they incurred after the collision,” says Turk. If you didn’t go through the insurance company at the time of the accident, “you now have a huge problem. The company could decline to cover you.” You’re on safer ground if you write your neighbour a cheque after rear-ending her parked car, “though it’s still a breach of policy,” says Turk. “Consider yourself warned.”

Paralyzed, with a partially severed spinal cord, it took more than six months of hospitalization and two years of intensive physiotherapy for Freedman to resume her life. She was unable to work and had no one to support her. “Thank goodness I had a good private disability insurance plan,” says Freedman, a certified financial planner and author of Hit by an Iceberg: Coping with Disability in Mid-Career. “Those payments allowed me to concentrate on my rehabilitation and to live my life without worrying about where the money was coming from for daily living expenses. That made a big difference to me and my recovery.”

While many of us understand the importance of life insurance, the truth is that insurance against an accident or disease that prevents you from working is arguably even more important. A typical 30-year-old has a four times greater chance of becoming disabled than he does of dying before age 65. A full one in six Canadians will be disabled for three months or more before the age of 50.

There are two main options: long-term disability (LTD) and critical illness (CI) policies. Both pay you money in case of an illness or disability, but they do it different ways. Disability insurance provides a monthly income if you’re unable to work due to a serious injury or illness, while critical illness insurance pays out a tax-free lump sum payment following the diagnosis of one of several illnesses covered by your policy. So which one is right for you?

Regular pay if you can’t work

If you work for a large company, you likely already have some kind of long-term disability insurance. Typically, such a plan will pay you a set portion of your monthly income if you are unable to work. Payments end when you start working again, reach age 65, or die. Coverage differs greatly from one employer to another, and if you’re self-employed or you work for a smaller company, you may have no coverage at all.

Such disability plans will either cover you for “any occupation” or “own occupation.” The latter is much better, because under this definition, total disability means the inability to work at your regular job. With “any occupation,” total disability means the ability to perform the duties of any job. That means that if you become disabled, but you could perform a less demanding job, you may not get the benefit. Often plans offer “own occupation” coverage for the first two years of the benefit period and then switch to “any occupation” after that.

To figure out whether you have enough coverage, contact your company’s HR department—if there is one—or your office manager. If you have coverage, ask them to walk you through your group benefits. If you find that your company plan covers at least 60% of your pay in the event of an accident or illness that prevents you from working, you likely have enough coverage. If you don’t have kids and your mortgage is paid off, you likely could get by on a policy that pays 40% to 50% or your salary. “Basically, you want enough coverage to meet your living expenses—meaning mortgage payments, taxes, hydro, food and transportation costs,” says Lorne Marr, an independent insurance broker and founder of LSM Insurance Services in Markham, Ont.

When evaluating your plan, keep in mind that many disability plans include a cap on benefits. For instance, your plan may cover 60% of your gross income, but only up to $2,500 a month. That means if you’re earning more than $50,000 a year, you may not have enough coverage. If you made $130,000 annually, you would only get the $2,500 a month maximum, which amounts to only 23% of your pay.

If you earn a high income, you may want to consider a private disability plan to supplement your group benefits. To give you a quick idea of the cost involved, a private “own occupation” disability policy for a 40-year-old male white-collar non-smoker that pays $3,000 a month until age 65 (90-day waiting period) would cost about $140 a month. The same policy for “any occupation” would cost about $75 a month.

When calculating your coverage, keep in mind that payments from private disability insurance are tax-free, while the payout from most corporate plans is taxable.

A single payout if you get sick

A second option is critical illness (CI) insurance. You can buy a critical illness policy through an independent insurance broker and it will pay out a lump-sum benefit if you are diagnosed with one of the illnesses specified in the policy. The benefit is tax-free and receiving this benefit doesn’t affect the amount of disability benefits you may also be receiving. When you collect, there are no requirements as to how the money is spent.

The idea of receiving a lump-sum payment of perhaps hundreds of thousands of dollars to help pay for top-notch medical treatment if you are diagnosed with cancer or another critical illness sounds like a smart idea, but unfortunately critical illness insurance is costly and the situations it covers are limited. Typical premiums for a $200,000 policy for a 40-year-old non-smoker add up to $2,000 a year for a 10-year term. More problematic is the fact that the policies are not standardized and problems often arise when payouts have to be made. For instance, some policies will cover only five illnesses, while more comprehensive ones cover up to 25. Such policies can also have stringent requirements regarding survival periods that have to be met after the disability is sustained before a payout is made. If your illness doesn’t meet the requirements exactly, the policy may not pay out a dime.

For instance, if you have a $100,000 critical illness policy, it may specify that no payment will be made if you have a benign melanoma. The same goes for some of the less serious cancers, such as stage one or stage two prostate cancers. “Read the fine print in the policy carefully,” says Barbara Garbens, a certified financial planner in Toronto. “The list of illnesses it covers will be a lot shorter than the exclusions. So it can be a bit of a mug’s game.”

Which type should you get?

If you don’t already have long-term disability insurance and you’re choosing between the two types of coverage, disability insurance is the clear winner. That’s because it will kick in to help you pay the bills in the event of any illness or accident that prevents you from working, while critical illness insurance only helps if you happen to encounter one of the specific illnesses covered by your plan. As well, collecting critical illness insurance often involves more paperwork and delays.

Stanley Morris’s experience with critical illness insurance clearly shows the difference. Last year at age 59, Morris (not his real name) was diagnosed with a brain tumour. Before his diagnosis, he was an active skier, cyclist and entrepreneur. Six years earlier, while reviewing his benefits, Morris had purchased both private disability insurance coverage as well as a critical illness policy.

When he was diagnosed with the tumour, his disability insurance started paying benefits right away, but because of severe headaches, he was unable to file the critical illness insurance documents quickly. After a couple of months, a close friend stepped in to help him with the paperwork and eventually, his claim was filed. But unfortunately, Morris died before he could collect a penny.

Still, there is one situation where critical illness makes sense, and that’s if you help to support your family, but you can’t get disability insurance because you have no earned income. For instance, a 35-year-old spouse who stays home with three small kids and doesn’t work may be a good candidate for a comprehensive critical illness policy (although even then, only for a brief period of time, say 10 years while the children are young). “A family’s lifestyle would change drastically if the stay-at-home spouse was critically ill,” says Rona Birenbaum, a certified financial planner in Toronto. “Paying people to replace the duties he or she performs is expensive. The coverage may not be perfect but it may helpful in these cases.”

1. Only buy insurance to protect you from unlikely events.
2. Only buy enough insurance to maintain your existing standard of living.
3. You don’t need insurance for events that won’t severely strain your finances.

Easy right? Now let’s put those rules into practice. Do you need to insure your kids? No, because if something happened to them, you’d be devastated, but it wouldn’t strain your finances. Here’s another: Do you need disability insurance for your family’s primary breadwinner? Yes, because although becoming disabled is an unlikely event, it would have severe financial consequences for the whole family. Here’s a tougher one: Should you buy life insurance for yourself if you’re 89? No, because sadly, it’s very likely that you will die within the next 10 years, so insurance would be prohibitively expensive.

Want to know more? Read on for Canada’s best guide to getting the insurance you need for less, whether it’s life, disability, car, home or travel. You’ll be glad you did.

Guide to insurance: Life insurance
Guide to insurance: Disability insurance
Guide to insurance: Car insurance
Car insurance: Can big brother save you money
Guide to insurance: Home insurance
Guide to insurance: Travel insurance

But what kind should you get? The most popular is term life: you pay a fixed premium that covers you for a specific period, usually 10 or 20 years. The other major category is called permanent life insurance, because the coverage continues for life. Within the permanent insurance category there are two types: whole life and universal life (see “Whole vs. universal life” below). Permanent policies typically have an investment component as well as the insurance, and a “cash surrender value” if you cancel them.

The usual advice from the financial media is that you should only buy term, because it’s simple, transparent, and cheap. Permanent insurance is none of those things. The premiums for universal and whole life policies are often five times higher than those of a 20-year term policy. To give a rough example, a 35-year-old male non-smoker might pay $35 a month for a term policy with a death benefit of $500,000. A universal life policy with the same death benefit might cost $190 a month, while a comparable whole life policy could easily top $250.

Because such policies are expensive, they’ve developed a bad reputation. Anyone in the insurance business will tell you that whole life and universal life policies are widely loathed by the general public. “Be prepared to get beaten up for suggesting anything other than term,” says Glenn Cooke, an independent broker who operates Insurecan.com and uses term policies for more than 90% of his clients. “Permanent insurance may be more appropriate in certain cases, but whenever I mention it, people get upset. Anyone who has done a little bit of reading gets aggressive.”

There are legitimate reasons for being skeptical: whole life and universal life policies have a long history of being oversold by pushy salespeople motivated by higher commissions. That’s left some families paying for the wrong benefits. Geoff Graham, president of Graham Financial Strategies Group in Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ont., stresses that a family’s first concern when buying insurance is to make sure the death benefit is large enough. Any investment or cash value component is secondary. “I’ve seen people who got the deluxe plan with all of these features, but if they die, their spouse and children are going to be in trouble.”

When Myron and Anne Janzen went looking for insurance, their goal was to protect their three children, not to build an investment. “I was looking to get coverage for 10 times my annual income,” says Myron. The Janzens, who live in Winkler, Man., also wanted coverage for Anne, who works from home. So they chose a joint term policy that will pay $500,000 if either was to die. The cost is just $49 per month. “When I looked at the premiums for term versus whole life, I knew I would be much better off taking the difference and investing it myself.”

Does that mean you should avoid whole and universal life under any circumstances? Turns out the answer is no. A simple term policy is adequate for the vast majority of Canadians, especially young parents who need a hefty death benefit they can afford (see “How to buy term” on the facing page). But there are several situations where permanent insurance really is the better choice.

You want to leave a legacy

Say you have a disabled child and you want to leave her $500,000, no matter how old she is when you die. In this case, it makes more sense to buy a permanent insurance policy than to try to save that yourself. The least expensive way is with an “unfunded” universal life policy, which means you pay only for the insurance and never add money to the investment component. A similar product called “term to 100” also provides coverage for life, but with no investments and no cash surrender value.

Asher Tward, vice-president of estate planning at TriDelta Financial in Toronto, explains that the median life expectancy for a healthy 35-year-old male is about 44 years. If you pay a premium of $190 per month for 44 years and your heir receives a half-million-dollar payout, that works out to an annual after-tax return of about 6%—more than most people would be able to get by investing on their own. “You also went to sleep every night of your life knowing that you had $500,000 of protection,” Tward says.

You could become uninsurable

If whole life and universal life policies are controversial for young parents, try recommending them for kids. Despite what your agent or broker says, in cold financial terms children are a liability, not an asset that needs to be protected: no one depends on young children for their income. But there is one situation where a permanent policy for a child makes sense.

Just ask Christina Huppé, a 33-year-old mother in Kanata, Ont. She and her husband Marty purchased whole life coverage for nine-year-old Hanna and three-year-old Sébastien. “I know this is a touchy subject for some parents: they think it’s morbid to insure their children,” says Christina. “But in our case, I have a genetic blood disorder, and my children have a 50% chance of inheriting it.” If her children do inherit the disorder, they’ll find it difficult or impossible to get affordable coverage as adults. “So we decided to give the children an insurance policy now to protect them and their families for the future. We’re looking ahead a couple of generations.”

You have more than you’ll need

“Whenever I recommend that people use whole life, it’s never because they need more insurance,” says Warren MacKenzie of Weigh House Investor Services in Toronto. “It’s because they’ve got more money than they will need, and they’re paying tax on it.”

The crucial point here is that using a permanent insurance policy as a tax shelter makes sense only when your RRSPs and TFSAs are maxed out, you have a significant amount invested in bonds or other fully taxable investments, and you are virtually certain you won’t need the money in your lifetime.

Anil Yaser has found himself in just that predicament. A physician in Toronto, Yaser (not his real name) has amassed enough money to retire today at age 50. Even though he’s single and has no children, he’s considering buying permanent life insurance to shelter some of his wealth from taxes.

Yaser has a lot of money in bonds, and he’s losing almost half the interest payments to taxes. If he uses that money to fund a whole life insurance policy with an investment component, he can shelter it while he’s alive. Then it will transfer to his nieces and nephews tax-free when he dies.

Critics of whole life point out that you have no control over how the money in your policy is invested. But MacKenzie argues this feature is often a benefit in disguise, since most people do a poor job of managing their own investments.

That afternoon, at our kitchen table, he showed me how saving can earn you money through compounded interest, and how owing money can bury you in debt. His message? If you have a financial plan, you have choices—and having choices and setting goals is what leading a successful and satisfying life is all about.

My dad’s personal financial plan was his road map, helping him navigate to his dreams. And the roads to those dreams were built on details. For instance, dad always knew exactly what his take-home pay was, how much the family spent every week on groceries and gas, and how much he needed to save each month to pay off his mortgage in 10 years—his main financial focus when I was growing up.

His plan wasn’t just about counting pennies though, it also allowed him to plan for luxuries—and pay for them in cash. That’s why there was a special column in his plan for $50 in weekly savings towards a family trip to Italy. He had a system he believed in, and made sure the household finances were managed effectively.

These days, most people I know don’t have a financial plan. We spend a lot of time planning for other aspects of our lives, such as our careers, marriages and having kids, but many of us fail to build a plan to achieve our financial goals.

If you would like to stop wondering about whether you’ll ever realize your financial goals, and build a plan to actually reach them, I can help. Read on and I’ll not only show you how to build a proper financial plan, I’ll take you through each step, complete with worksheets and a blank financial plan template that you can fill in at the end. Follow my simple instructions and in no time at all, you’ll have the peace of mind that comes with a professional-quality personal financial plan—without having to pay a financial planner a dime.

1. Talk to your spouse
Most couples never talk to each other about their financial goals. If you’re in a relationship, before you roll up your sleeves and dig into the numbers, talk to your spouse about what you want to accomplish. “Have a brief conversation about goals, values, and what kind of lifestyle you want,” says Karin Mizgala, chief executive officer of Money Coaches Canada, a national network of fee-only financial experts based in Vancouver. “That’s key to a good start.”

Action step #1: Click here to find 10 worksheets in the “MoneySense financial plan kit.” There is a PDF version of each worksheet that you can download and print out if you want to fill in the sheets with a pencil or pen. There is also a Microsoft Word version you can fill out on your computer. Print out “Worksheet 1-Prioritize your goals” for this step. You and your spouse should fill this sheet out separately, then compare the results when you’re done.

2. Figure out where you’re at
Before you start worrying about where you want to go, you first have to figure out where you are now. In this step you’ll create a net worth statement, which is essentially an honest measure of your current wealth. You do this by tallying up the value of what you own (your assets) and what you owe (your liabilities). When you subtract your liabilities from your assets, you get a number that represents your net worth. Your net worth statement is an important tool that charts your financial progress over the years. For instance, if your net worth is going down, you’re eroding your wealth and making it harder to achieve your goals. If it’s increasing, you’re on your way to getting richer and achieving your financial goals.

Action step #2: Determine your net worth. Print out “Worksheet 2-Gather your documents.” It’s a checklist to help you pull together what you’ll need before you start, including bank statements, credit card statements, and life insurance polices.

Once you have all your documents in front of you, you’re ready to fill out “Worksheet 3-Your net worth statement.” First list the values of all of your assets, including your home, your cars, your cash and investments. Then list your liabilities, including credit card debts, your mortgage and any other outstanding loans. Tally both your assets and your liabilities and transfer those amounts to the following section, your simplified net worth statement.

Finally, subtract your liabilities from your assets to discover your true net worth. This shorter net worth statement gives a clear snapshot of exactly where you stand today.

3. Track your spending
The key to building a strong financial plan for the future is to understand how much you spend and save right now. This is called tracking your cash flow, and it can give you a sense of control and confidence that makes it easier to make financial changes in your life.

Personally, I’ve kept a small journal tracking my spending for years because it helps me modify my behaviour if my spending gets out of control. It’s not always easy, but it works.

“The part most people dread is taking a really close look at their expenses,” says Mizgala. “But don’t put it off. Successfully managing cash flow is your key to financial control. It will give you an awareness that has more long-term value than anything you can invest in, buy or sell.”

The point of the exercise is to find out whether you finish each year with a cash surplus or a cash deficit. This number will tell you a lot about your general financial shape. A surplus means you’re living within your means, while a deficit shows you’re spending more than you make. If you have a deficit, you will have to cut your expenses (or increase your income) to achieve any financial goals.

What do most people find after doing this exercise? “They’re shocked,” says Mizgala. “It’s a very revealing exercise, mainly because if you have a family with two spouses with debit and credit cards, it’s hard to really see the complete financial picture unless you write it down. This awareness allows you to set up a system for the household.”

Action step #3: Record your cash flow. Fill out “Worksheet 4-Your spending and savings.” It shows what money is coming in (wages, interest, government benefits) and what’s flowing out (rent, debt payments, utility bills). Fill in all your monthly expenses in column 1 and your annual expenses in column 2. (You can leave column 3, the estimate for your future spending in retirement for a later date.)

Tally up your expenses in both columns and subtract them from total net income on both a monthly and yearly basis. The result is your cash flow deficit or surplus.

A good way to approach this exercise is to start with your regular monthly after-tax income and subtract the bills that don’t change month to month, such as rent or mortgage payments. If you don’t know the exact numbers, put in averages for things like groceries, gas or children’s activities. Then add in expenses that only come up a few times a year, such as travel, car repairs and gym fees. Estimate a total for these and divide it by 12, and put that figure in the monthly column of your worksheet. You may not pay the bills in 12 monthly installments but imagine you are setting money aside each month so that you have the total amount when the bill comes due.

4. Adjust your spending
Look closer. Are your expenses higher than your income? If so, you’re living beyond your means. You’ll need to adjust your expenses accordingly so you don’t go further into debt.

This step is not about punishing yourself or laying blame. If you’d rather eat out four times a week than buy a cottage in 10 years, that’s your choice. But you owe it to yourself to be honest about what you’re doing so you’re not wondering why you can’t reach your financial goals.

If you decide to cut back, there are some less painful ways of doing it. Consider renegotiating your mortgage to a lower rate or cutting out one major expense completely. A close friend of mine cut the $5,000 annual family vacation and substituted a couple of long weekends of camping instead. It saves his family $4,000 annually.

If you have a cash surplus, congratulations. You can start allocating money to meet your goals right away.

Action step #4: Compare your spending to your goals. Take a second look at “Worksheet 1-Prioritize your goals” and “Worksheet 4-Your spending and savings.” The idea here is to look at how well your current spending habits mesh with your goals. If you have a cash flow deficit you won’t be able to meet your goals, so you’ll have to see if you can free up cash by cutting back your spending in areas that are less important to you.

For instance, if you have a $5,000 a year deficit on Worksheet 4 and one of your goals is to go on a $4,000 family vacation to Britain in four years, you need to figure out a way to cut $6,000 a year from your spending. You could try using only one car and taking public transit to work. Such a cut could save you $6,000 a year in vehicle costs, allowing you to both balance your budget and reach your travel goal.

5. Set your life goals
Financial goals don’t just happen. You make them happen. This step requires you to assess where you want to be five, 10 and 20 years from now and answer some big questions, such as where you want to live in retirement and when you want to stop working.

One tip is to visualize what your life will be like 10 years from now if you do everything right. The truth is when they picture their future lives, very few people see themselves in a $10-million house in Hawaii. Most people’s goals are more realistic, such as keeping up their current standard of living in retirement (with maybe a few upgrades), preventing any financial disasters, and having the freedom to do the things they love, such as spending more time with friends and family.

“Think of what type of life you want in the future and how you are going to organize your life right now to get it,” says Mizgala. “Your job is to structure your finances so you can achieve your vision.”

Action step #5: Set your top three goals. Fill in “Worksheet 5-Your life and financial goals” and “Worksheet 6-Your top three goals.” If your are in a relationship, sit down with your partner and examine what your goals are and how they fit in with your spending and saving patterns. On Worksheet 5, list each of your top four or five goals and assign a dollar value to each, as well as a time frame for achieving the goal.

Now, compare how closely your goals align with those of your partner. In Worksheet 6, list the three most important goals that you both agree on, in order of priority, in column 1.

6. Develop a strategy
Once you know where you’re going, you need a plan to get there. The usual route is to spend less than you earn and invest the surplus in such a way that you can get where you want to go.

One word of caution—if you’ve identified your goals but you’re in debt, you probably should address that debt before you start investing for the future. “Even when people are not overspending and have debts that carry reasonable interest rates, I encourage them to work aggressively at paying those debts down,” says Norbert Schlenker, founder of Libra Investment Management in Salt Spring Island, B.C. “Don’t even think about investing before your debts are all gone.”

Action step #6: Chart a path to your goals. Go back to “Worksheet 6-Your top three goals” and in column 2, note any obstacles to achieving each goal. Then, in column 3, write down the action steps that you and your spouse have both agreed on to make that goal a reality. For instance, when you tally up the costs of your top three goals, you may find that you need an extra $65,000 in five years to meet those goals. The main obstacle may be that your household income is low because one partner works only part-time. That partner may decide to work full-time in order to earn extra money. The key is to develop strategies and appropriate timelines to make your goals materialize.

7. Review your insurance
If you work full time, much of your insurance may be provided by your employer’s group plan. But is it enough? If you feel confident enough to do some basic calculations yourself you can find out.

Many workplace benefit plans include disability insurance, but if yours doesn’t, get enough to replace at least 60% of your after-tax income.

Then look at your life insurance needs. The general rule of thumb is to get enough life insurance to cover 10 times your income if you have kids under 10 years old (five times your income if you have kids over 10), plus the amount needed to pay off your debt. So if you make $50,000 a year, you have $250,000 outstanding on your mortgage, and two kids under 10, you will need $750,000 in term life insurance. Go to www.term.ca for quotes.

At this point, it may make sense to have an agent review all your insurance policies—disability, life, auto and home—to make sure your coverage is adequate. But be careful. “Do not be oversold on insurance by an industry that is famous for doing exactly that,” says Schlenker. “Pay attention to fees, especially with life insurance. If you need more life insurance, chances are renewable term is the right product for you. You want plain vanilla coverage for a plain vanilla problem—your kids going hungry because you can’t work.”

Action step #7: Review your coverage. There’s no worksheet for this step, but you should still take some time to carefully review all of your insurance coverage. If you don’t have group coverage through work, you probably have private insurance policies for medical, dental, life and disability insurance. Consult an independent insurance agent for a quick review. If you need extra coverage, make a note of it so you can include that in your final financial plan.

8. Slash your taxes
Most tax planning is relatively simple. You’re probably doing a lot of things right already. For instance, if you own your home and use RRSPs, Registered Education Savings Plans (RESPs), and Tax-Free Savings Accounts (TFSAs), you’re already taking advantage of the best tax shelters out there.

To reduce the taxes you pay on your investment portfolio returns it helps to understand that the income tax system treats the various sources of investment income differently. Interest on bonds and foreign dividends is taxed at your full marginal tax rate, Canadian dividends are taxed at rates about one-third lower, and capital gains at half the full rate. So there are advantages to holding investments that generate capital gains and Canadian dividends outside of your RRSP and TFSA if you’re tight on contribution room.

Action step #8: Consider calling a tax accountant. Again, there’s no worksheet for this step. But a few basic principles apply. For those with low to moderate incomes, paying off debt—including the mortgage—is the best tax-planning you can do. That’s because you don’t pay taxes on the capital gains on your home and there’s no tax on the return you get for getting out of debt. If, however, you’re in a higher tax bracket—earning $85,000 a year or more—it may be worth paying for a couple of hours of an accountant’s time to see what mix of investment options—RRSPs, RESPs and TFSAs—is right for you tax-wise. Have these suggestions handy for your final plan.

9. Create an investing policy
Every professional financial plan includes an Investment Policy Statement (IPS) that recommends how a portfolio should be invested. It puts in writing the rules that will make you a more disciplined investor. Having an IPS helps you to stick with your plan and keeps you from changing course when the market gets volatile.

A typical investment policy might specify that your portfolio should always maintain a ratio of 60% stocks to 40% fixed-income investments. This ratio is determined by your time horizon and risk tolerance. The longer your time horizon and the greater your tolerance for risk, the higher the equity portion of your portfolio. As you near retirement and need the security of more stable income from your investments, the portfolio mix will usually tilt towards bonds.

An IPS also states the expected annual returns for your portfolio—typically 5% to 6% per year—over a very long time period, such as 20 years or more. Your IPS might also note the volatility you should expect for a given portfolio. For instance, it could say that you should expect the portfolio to suffer a 10% drop in the short term at least once a decade.

Action step #9: Determine which investments are right for you. Fill in “Worksheet 7-How are you currently invested?” and “Worksheet 8-Which investments are right for you?” On Worksheet 7, itemize every investment you own today—including cash, fixed-income products and equity holdings.

Worksheet 8 will help you assess how much you need to save monthly, when you’ll need the money, and what your risk tolerance is. The results will allow you to zero in on how you should invest in future to meet your goals.

If you have trouble with this section, you can always leave it for now. Once your financial plan is complete, you can consult a fee-only adviser to help you build an investment strategy that’s right for you.

10. Write up a will
Every adult who owns assets and has a spouse or children should have a will. An accurate and up-to-date will is the only way to ensure your assets will be distributed the way you want them to be. If you don’t have one, you’re letting the laws in the province you live in make those decisions for you. And if you hold the belief that your spouse will automatically inherit everything—you’re wrong. In most parts of Canada children trump partners. Without a will your husband or wife will get a predetermined amount of your assets—the rest goes to the kids.

Action step #10: Create or update your will. If you have an updated will it should be filed with your financial plan. If you don’t have one, hire a lawyer to draw one up for you. Visit www.lawyerlocate.ca and search for lawyers in your area who specialize in wills and estates.

11. Create your final plan
A typical financial plan has five main parts. The first outlines where you stand right now, that’s your current situation. The second contains your top financial goals, or where you want to go. The third is a simple net worth statement. The fourth lists the steps you must take to achieve your goals. It includes your income and expenses, an overview of your insurance, a section on retirement planning, and a section on estate planning. Finally, the fifth section—usually a separate document—is your Investment Policy Statement, which lays out how your portfolio is to be invested.

To get a better feel for what your financial plan might look like, let’s take a look at a plan that has already been created by a fictional couple, Patty and Walter Berglund. The Berglunds are a 34-year-old couple living in Halifax. They have two daughters, Debra and Marie, ages 5 and 2. Their household income is $110,000 and after all expenses have been paid, they have $20,000 in cash left over each year.

Their plan lists their top five goals—to pay down $20,000 in consumer debt, save $5,000 for a family trip to Disney World in two years, pay off their $150,000 mortgage in 15 years, save $60,000 in RESPs for their daughters’ post-secondary education and finally, to retire comfortably at age 60.

This is followed by a basic statement of their assets and liabilities that shows a net worth of $82,000. The couple’s projected income and expenses show a $20,000 annual cash surplus. That money is earmarked for their goals in the following way: In the first year the entire $20,000 surplus will go towards paying down the debt. In year two, $5,000 will go towards the big family Disney World trip, $5,000 towards an extra payment on their mortgage, $5,000 to the RESPs and $5,000 to a spousal RRSP for Patty. The couple agrees to continue using the annual surplus in this way each year until their goals change.

After consulting with an insurance agent, the Berglunds agreed that their group plans with their employer are mostly adequate but they decided to increase Walter’s insurance coverage by $300,000. In the section on retirement planning, the couple made some assumptions: that Walter remains employed as a physiotherapist and stays in the hospital’s defined benefit pension plan until age 60, and that Patty continues working part time earning $30,000 a year as a social worker. Walter will start saving $5,000 annually in a spousal RRSP for Patty once their consumer debt is paid off (excluding the mortgage). If they do this, the couple should have more than enough to cover their retirement expenses adequately. Their wills and power of attorneys are all in order.

The second document, the Investment Policy Statement (IPS), outlines the Berglunds’ investment plan. They have an average tolerance for risk and don’t require regular income from the portfolio right now. So a balanced 60% equity, 40% fixed income mix suits them fine. The couple wants a well-diversified portfolio at minimal expense. Thus, their policy states that low-cost index funds or exchange-traded funds are to be used wherever possible.

Their IPS also states that once a year the Berglunds will review their portfolio and rebalance to bring the asset allocation back to their pre-determined target mix of 60% equity and 40% fixed income. It also states clearly that sudden market price movements are not grounds for revision. This will help stop the Berglunds from making impulsive investment decisions out of fear or greed.

Action step #11: Create your financial plan. Open “Worksheet 9-Your financial plan” and gather together all of the worksheets you have already filled out. Worksheet 9 is a blank financial plan with all the sections already labeled for you. At this point, all you are really doing is taking information from the completed worksheets and putting it all together to form your plan. Before you proceed, it may help to review the sample plan for Patty and Walter Berglund at the end of Worksheet 9.

Now fill out “Worksheet 10-Your investment policy statement.” Again, refer to Patty and Walter Berglund’s Investment Policy Statement at the bottom of this worksheet for guidance. Write a brief summary of your current status, and under Objectives and Constraints write down your risk tolerance, time horizon, any taxation strategies you plan to use, and the amount of time you wish to spend managing your portfolio—in many cases, minimal.

Under Investment Strategy Guidelines, write an outline of how your investments will be allocated, according to asset class. The next three headings—Security Guidelines, Location Guidelines and Risk Control, Monitoring and Review are fairly generic and are already filled in for you.

Phew, it’s done! You now have a financial plan for the rest of your life. From this point on, as your goals change, modifications to your basic plan will be straightforward.

Of course you still have to follow your plan. But you’ll probably find that the process of putting it together has already changed some of your beliefs about how your money should be spent and invested, so changing your financial behaviour may not be as hard as you think.

To make sure you stay on track, you should take the time to review your plan at least once a year, and update it as necessary. It’s also a good idea to pull it out whenever you run into a big financial or life event, such as a market crash, marriage or job change. “It’s a tool to support you through life,” says Mizgala. “Money and household finances won’t be as scary when you break it down into these manageable bits. If you truly commit, it will be a huge boon to your emotional and financial well-being.”