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MoneySense Magazine, September/October 2011
Choose a brilliant wine, every time
Want to pick up a great bottle of wine for less than $30, every time you hit the store? Learn how to read the label
Check out the reviews
Vintages wines, in particular, will often be accompanied on the shelf by reviews and scores from influential publications like Wine Spectator or Robert Parker Junior’s The Wine Advocate. Most bottles will be graded out of 100, with scores of 90 or above indicating top quality. The question is, should you buy wines based on solely on their reviews and scores? “Why not?” says Trenholm. “These wines have been tasted and reviewed by someone, and the best reviews are usually the ones that get posted in the store, so it can be a great indication of quality.”
That said, different reviewers have different palates, and their tastes may not agree with yours. “Robert Parker Junior favours big, dark, extracted wines from the New World and Bordeaux, whereas someone like (British wine writer) Jancis Robinson leans more toward old-school European style blends,” says Pieter Van den Weghe, who teaches at Algonquin College’s sommelier program, and is also responsible for the wine list at Ottawa’s toniest restaurant, Beckta Dining and Wine. “The best thing to do is drink the wines they recommend, and see if you agree with their recommendations.”
Develop a vocabulary
Do you like your Italian reds to taste like “sweet tea, tamarind spice, plum and leather”? If so, you may want to pick up a bottle of Franco Molino Barolo 2006. If, on the other hand, your tastes cleave toward “raspberry pie, forest floor, dark chocolate, cherry and road tar,” the Marchesi Di Barolo Barbaresco 2007 is the tipple for you.
Confused? You’re hardly alone in struggling to decipher the increasingly arcane language wine experts use. When it comes to flavours, try focussing less on specific terms—road tar, anyone?—and more on the general impressions. Words like “berry,” “grass,” and “citrus,” denote lighter-tasting wines with a lot of high notes, whereas “plum,” “earth,” “mushroom,” and the like are indicative of deeper, darker wines.
“The point is, you have to develop a basic vocabulary so you can recognize wines that suit your taste,” says Van den Weghe.
The acid (and tannin) test
Two terms to become familiar with are “acidity” and “tannins,” because they have precise meanings and can point to style, flavour and quality. Too much acidity makes a wine tart, like sucking a lemon, and too much tannin makes a wine dry and astringent, like over-brewed tea. Why should you care? Because understanding the role acidity and tannins play in wine making leads to an understanding of which wines to purchase for different occasions. “Low acid Chardonnays are perfect for drinking on their own, but if you’re pairing a white wine with food, you’ll want the zip and zing of higher acidity wines, like Sauvignon Blancs,” says Rivest. “Red wines with a lot of tannins, like Cabernet Sauvignons and Sangioveses, are perfect for cellaring, because tannins help wines age, whereas you’ll want to drink grape varietals like Pinot Noir and Gamay, right away. Also, high tannin wines don’t go well with fish, so if you want to drink red, stick with Pinots or Gamays,” says Rivest.
How much is too much?
It is possible to spend $1,000 for a bottle of Bordeaux. It will be good. But it won’t be 10 times better than a $100 bottle, and it won’t be 50 times better than a $20 bottle. In fact, Rivest, Trenholm and Van den Weghe all agree that wines priced between $15 and $35 offer the best value for money. “I think it’s wise to set personal limits on how much you’re willing to spend on a bottle, and my own limit is $30,” says Van den Weghe. Adds Rivest: “You get what you pay for to an extent, but rarely do you need to exceed $50 for a bottle. Spend more than that and you’re getting into the luxury, prestige market, and value drops off.”
Bang for the buck
As a general rule, established wine growing regions will be more expensive than up-and-coming regions, and popular grape varietals will be more expensive than less popular varietals. So where does one turn for value? “If you have $20 to spend and are looking for value, you can pretty much rule out Burgundy, Napa and Champagne,” says Rivest. “Chile and Argentina still represent good value, especially if you appreciate Malbecs, and Greece for me has been an amazing discovery, with 300 indigenous varietals not known anywhere else.”
Says Van den Weghe: “Germany is a minefield of terrible wines unless you go to the Vintages section, where $20 can get you a remarkable German wine. You can get a wicked bottle of wine from Languedoc, in the south of France, for $20, and Argentina delivers really great wines at that price.”
A good year
There is a popular misconception that older wines are better wines—that a 2006 vintage will be better than a 2007 or 2008. “Most wines aren’t released until they’re ready to drink, so there’s no real advantage to looking for older dates on bottles,” says Trenholm. “Instead look for wines from years in which growing conditions were ideal. In Canada, 2007 was Mother Nature’s gift to the wine industry, with spectacular growing conditions throughout the country.”
To cellar or not to cellar
The vast majority of wines sold in Canada are meant to be drunk immediately, so there’s no real need to cellar wines at home. That said, cellaring can be a fun hobby, and can improve the quality of some wines. “You don’t need a climate-controlled cellar, but you should store your wines in a cool, dry, still environment. That means not next to the furnace, and not next to a washer or dryer.” Some liquor stores use graphics to indicate which bottles are amenable to cellaring: a vertical bottle means drink now, a diagonal bottle means it can be cellared, and a horizontal bottle means it must be cellared. “Also,” says Trenholm, “clear glass bottles are meant to be drunk right away, and the darker the bottle, the longer a wine can usually be cellared.” There are limits, though: after a decade or so, most wines will actually start declining in quality, losing their youthful character and bright edges.
MoneySense Magazine, September/October 2011










